The Cult of King Rama V

H.M. King Rama the 5th

You will see thousands of pictures and shrines, particularly in Bangkok, dedicated to King Chulalongkorn, King Rama V of the Chakri Dynasty. Although his reign ended with his death in 1910, interest in his life and times accelerated in the 1990s. Each October 23, the day of his passing, is celebrated throughout Thailand through memorial events.

King Rama V was a benevolent monarch, responsible for much of the modernization that sped Thailand into the 20th century.

He was born on September 20, 1853, son of King Mongkut, Rama IV, an enlightened king who valued education and sought better communication with the West, while leery of colonial interests. He ascended to the throne at the age of 15, with Mongkut’s passing, but operated under regents until his 20th birthday. During the regency period, Chulalongkorn traveled extensively, becoming introduced to Western cultures and customs. In his travels, he expressed a keen interest in technology and western political processes.

Rama V was also a free spirit, socially, who enjoyed good liquor, and had 92 wives and fathered 77 children. He sent many of his children to overseas universities, creating an educated ruling class that would have political ramifications for generations to come.

When Rama V ascended to the throne, approximately 30% of all Thais were slaves. He gradually abolished slavery through changing pertinent laws. He also abandoned the practice of subjects crawling along the floor when approaching or departing royalty, preferring instead that they walk or stand, and bow their heads in deference, instead of prostrating themselves. On his 1897 visit to Western countries, he appointed his wife Queen Saowapa to rule in his absence, an act unprecedented in Thai history (Queen Saowapa went on to endow schools for girls, and founded the Thai Red Cross).

Today, Rama V shrines are located in homes and businesses, and each Tuesday (the day of the week on which the king was born) a large gathering takes place before the bronze statue of Rama V on horseback found in front of the old National Assembly in Bangkok, near the intersection of Thanon Sri Ayuttahaya and Thanon Uthong Nai. Here, starting at roughly 9 pm, thousands gather to light candles and incense, flower garlands, and brandy.

Nearly every go-go bar in Thailand has a Rama V shrine. Thai demimondaines in particular revere Rama V because he supported his consorts financially, and educated their sons. For that reason, they wai Rama V when entering the bar, wishing that good fortune will bring men into the bar who potentially will treat them as well as Rama V treated his favorites. The most appropriate drink for Rama V is brandy or whiskey, and relatively expensive (by Thai standards) Johnnie Walker Black Label is the one of the most commonly offered. Inexpensive Thai whiskeys such as Mekhong are considered below standard in honoring Rama V, and won’t be found on the shrine. Offerings of food often include coconut, and cigars are common as well. Tuesdays are traditional days for offerings, which often include a pink rose.

In addition to photographs, Thais wear Rama V pendants, and collect specially-minted commemorative coins in his honor.